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Verification of Biomass Substances in

Dyes and Products

Although biomass dyeing is attracting attention as a sustainable technology in the textile fashion industry, there is no certification system to verify the authenticity of biomass dyeing.

GREENWEAR provides an analysis of the dyes used during biomass dyeing and whether the dyed products are dyed with biomass dyestuffs.

Fabric Analysis

Natural origin analysis data of biomass dyeing fabric sample of GREENWEAR

KNIT

01 GKCX0001.png -2.png
GKCX0001

Comp     : Cotton 100%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

05 GKCS0003.png
GKCS0003

Comp     : Cotton 95%

                  Spandex 5%

Dyestuff  : Madder

10 GKCX0007 L.png
GKCX0007L

Comp     : Cotton 100%

Dyestuff  : Catechu

14 GKCP0020L.png
GKCP0020L

Comp     : Cotton 65%

                  Polyester 35%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

18 GKCP0026.png -2.png
GKCP0026

Comp     : Cotton 66.7%

                  Polyester 29.3%

                  Spandex 4%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

22 GKCS0034.png -2.png
GKCS0034

Comp     : Cotton 94%

                  Spandex 6%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

02 GKCX0001.png -2.png
GKCX0001

Comp     : Cotton 100%

Dyestuff  : Mulberry

06 GKCS0004.png -2.png
GKCS0004

Comp      : Organic Cotton 95%

                   Spandex 5%

Dyestuff  : Pomegranate

11 GKCP0008.png -2.png
GKCP0008

Comp     : Cotton 60%

                  Polyester 40%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

15 GKCP0020 L.png -2.png
GKCP0020L

Comp     : Cotton 65%

                    Polyester 35%

Dyestuff  : Madder

19 GKPS0027.png
GKPS0027

Comp     : Polyester 76%

                  Askin 18%

                  Spandex 6%

Dyestuff  : Pomegranate

23 GKPP0038.png -2.png
GKPP0038

Comp     : Polyester 50%

                  Polyethylene 50%

Dyestuff  : Madder

03 GKCX0002 -2.png
GKCX0002

Comp     : Cotton 100%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

07 GKTS0005.png -2.png
GKTS0005

Comp      : Tencel 95%

                   Spandex 5%

Dyestuff  : Himalayan Rhubarb

12 GKCP0013.png -2.png
GKCP0013

Comp     : Cotton 50%

                  Polyester 50%

Dyestuff  : Himalayan Rhubarb

16 GKCP0022.png -2.png
GKCP0022

Comp     : Cotton 65%

                  Polyester 30%

                  Spandex 5%

Dyestuff  : Madder

20 GKPS0027.png -2.png
GKPS0027

Comp     : Polyester 76%

                  Askin 18%

                  Spandex 6%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

24 GKCP0040.png -2.png
GKCP0040

Comp     : Cotton 46%

                  Polyester 54%

Dyestuff  : Madder

04 GKCX0002.png -2.png
GKCX0002

Comp     : Cotton 100%

Dyestuff  : Pomegranate

09 GKMS0006.png -2.png
GKMS0006

Comp     : Modal 94%

                  Spandex 6%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

13 GKNS0017.png -2.png
GKNS0017

Comp     : Nylon 74%

                  Spandex 26%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

17 GKCP0024.png
GKCP0024

Comp     : Cotton 74%

                  Polyester 26%

Dyestuff  : Madder

21 GKPS0028.png -2.png
GKPS0028

Comp     : Polyester 94%

                  Spandex 6% 

Dyestuff  : Himalayan Rhubarb

25 GKTP0044.png -2.png
GKTP0044

Comp     : Tencel 67%

                  Polyester 28%

                  Spandex 5%

Dyestuff  : Indigo

WOVEN

01 GWCX0001.png -2.png
GWCX0001

Comp     : Cotton 100%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

05 GWCX0005.png -2.png
GWCX0005

Comp     : Cotton 100%

Dyestuff  : Pomegranate

09 GWTP0012.png -2.png
GWTP0012

Comp     : Tencel 66%

                  Polyester 34%

Dyestuff  : Pomegranate

13 GWCX0019.png -2.png
GWCX0019

Comp     : Cotton 100%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

18 GWTX0024.png -2.png
GWTX0024

Comp     : Tencel 100%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

22 GWPS0032 -2.png
GWPS0032

Comp     : Polyester 93%

                  Spandex 7%

Dyestuff  : Catechu

02 GWMT0002.png -2.png
GWMT0002

Comp     : Modal 55%

                  Tencel 45%

Dyestuff  : Madder

06 GWNR0006.png -2.png
GWNR0006

Comp     : Nylon 63%

                  Rayon 34%

                  Spandex 3%

Dyestuff  : Madder

10 GWTC0014.png -2.png
GWTC0014

Comp     : Polyester 65%

                  Cotton 35%

Dyestuff  : Madder

14 GWNB0020.png. -2.png
GWNB0020

Comp     : Nylon 16%

                  Mulberry 84%

Dyestuff  : Pomegranate

19 GWPS0025.png -2.png
GWPS0025

Comp     : Polyester 99%

                  Spandex 1%

Dyestuff  : Madder

23 GWPR0033.png -2.png
GWPR0033

Comp     : Polyester 62%

                  Rayon 33%

                  Polyester 5%

Dyestuff  : Himalayan Rhubarb

03 GWMP0003 -2.png
GWMP0003

Comp     : Modal 78%

                  Polyester 22%

Dyestuff  : Pomegranate

07 GWNT0009.png -2.png
GWNT0009

Comp     : Nylon 24%

                  Tencel 76%

Dyestuff  : Madder

11 GWNR0015.png -2.png
GWNR0015

Comp     : Nylon 18%

                  Rayon 82%

Dyestuff  : Pomegranate

15 GWNB0020.png -2.png
GWNB0020

Comp     : Nylon 16%

                  Mulberry 84%

Dyestuff  : Himalayan Rhubarb

20 GWNR0029.png -2.png
GWNR0029

Comp     : Nylon 27%

                  Rayon 72%

                  Polyester 1%

Dyestuff  : Madder

24 GWPX0034.png -2.png
GWPX0034

Comp     : Polyester 100%

Dyestuff  : Madder

04 GWMP0004.png
GWMP0004

Comp     : Modal 70%

                  Polyester 30%

Dyestuff  : Gallnut

08 GWNM0011.png -2.png
GWNM0011

Comp     : Nylon 17%

                  Modal 79%

                  Polyester 4%

Dyestuff  : Madder

12 GWPX0017.png -2.png
GWPX0017

Comp     : r-PET 61%

                  Polyester 39%

Dyestuff  : Madder

17 GWPX0023.png
GWPX0023

Comp     : Polyester 100%

Dyestuff  : Madder

21 GWPR0030.png -2.png
GWPR0030

Comp     : Polyester 56%

                  Rayon 44%

Dyestuff  : Madder

Analytical System Overview

There are two methods of use validation analysis of naturally derived substances:

A. Analysis of Dye used by GREENWEAR

B. Analysis of GREENWEAR products

To prove A, radioactive carbon (C-14) isotope analysis (ASTM-D6866) is used to determine the presence of natural substances(biomass).To prove B, we compare and contrast the results of the marker compound(index component) analysis (HPLC-DAD, LC-MS, etc.) of the product dyed by GREENWEAR and the dye proven to be of natural origin in A to confirm that it is a product dyed with natural substances.

Biomass+HPLC.png

In other words, a product with the same marker compounds detected by comparing it to the marker compounds of a dye proven by radioactive carbon (C-14) isotope analysis is a product dyed with a biomass dye.

A. Analysis of Biomass(C-14) in Dyes

Background of the Analysis

Most synthetic materials, including synthetic dyes, have been manufactured by extracting raw materials from petroleum. However, biomass materials that do not cause environmental problems have begun to be in the spotlight because using petroleum raw materials can cause various environmental problems. These biological resources are called bio-mass.

Although biomass materials are eco-friendly, the chemical structure of petroleum-derived synthetic materials and biomass materials can be the same, so infrared spectroscopy and nuclear magnetic resonance analysis for general structural analysis cannot tell whether synthetic materials are bio-mass or petroleum-based substance. Therefore, this is now inferred from radioactive carbon isotope analysis.

What is a radioactive carbon isotope (C-14) ?

In the atmosphere, there's a constant ratio of C-12 (carbon, ¹²C), which is stable carbon, and C-14, which is radioactive carbon, which is made by nitrogen reacting with cosmic rays from the sun. Plants absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere while photosynthesizing, and animals absorb C-14 while eating plants or breathing air, and when living things die, they no longer absorb C-14, and the already absorbed C-14 collapses into nitrogen over time.


Therefore, if you make a biomass dye/biomass dye product from biomass that absorbs carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, you can analyze the mass of carbon present in it to analyze whether it is a bio-derived material or a petroleum-derived synthetic material.

B. Analysis of the Marker Compound of Dye and Dyed Fabric

What are marker compound(index component) ?

Among the components of dye used in biomass dyeing, representative substances are called marker compounds.

HPLC Analytic

HPLC(High-Performance Liquid Chromatography) is a method of analyzing the marker compounds of dyes used in biomass dyeing. Although HPLC analysis does not provide direct evidence of the natural origin of dyes, it can be used in conjunction with radioactive isotope analysis, a direct method of analysis the presence of synthetic components, to demonstrate the use of biomass substances(dyestuffs) in dyed products.

Radiocarbon isotope analysis shows that it is a biomass dyeing product by comparing and contrasting the marker compounds of biomass dyes identified as biomass materials with those of dyed products.

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